'Perspective | Everyone laughed at Thom Browne’s short pants. Now they’ve made him very rich.'

08:19 Oct 20, 2023 2 0

'Perspective | Everyone laughed at Thom Browne’s short pants. Now they’ve made him very rich. thom browne, tom ford, robin givhan, new york fashion week https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCd4_4MPV20qVj80Rm_cQHOw?sub_confirmation=1  Thom Browne and guests pose with the dog-headed man that’s part of the designer’s installation at Barneys New York (Robin Givhan/The Washington Post)  By  Robin Givhan  Fashion critic  September 6  NEW YORK — As fashion week begins here and the industry turns its attention to spring 2019, the Barneys New York windows along Madison Avenue contain no clothes, no fancy housewares, no products at all. Instead, austere venetian blinds hang in the street-facing windows, clicked closed. That’s it. That’s the display, morning, noon and night: windows that you can’t see into. The absence of stuff is in celebration of Thom Browne, the contrarian American designer who over the life of his eponymous brand has refused to listen to conventional wisdom or, perhaps, even common sense — and has emerged victorious. His creative vision has remained undiluted. His brand’s point-of-view is remarkably clear. And the recent sale of a majority of his company for $500 million offers financial proof that consumers — men and millennials, in particular — may actually want something more than fancy sneakers and jeans. Fourteen years ago, Browne shrunk the suit. Shoppers scratched their head in confusion, and observers laughed at Browne’s fans, with their trousers floating high above their (naked) ankles. Many presumed it was a silly fad. But Browne refused to back down. He is, he readily admits, stubborn. Browne’s obsessive focus has given the menswear industry an entirely new silhouette that has been knocked off at every price point; it’s offered men a different way of thinking about tailoring. He’s made the business suit the epitome of edgy style. Barneys honored Browne’s accomplishments at a Wednesday dinner that also kicked off a September-long collaboration with the designer that includes a capsule collection, housewares, made-to-measure offerings for both men and women, a surreal film celebrating the suit, a Thom Browne burger at its in-store restaurant and an Instagram-worthy installation featuring a dog-headed man.  The Thom Browne burger and accompaniments at Barneys New York. (Robin Givhan/The Washington Post)  In her toast to Browne, Daniella Vitale, Barneys chief executive, gave a nod to the designer’s magnificent stubbornness: As an executive at Gucci, she hired Browne to helm the men’s division. Gucci, to be clear, was a fashion leader. Two days before Browne was due to begin, he called to say he couldn’t do it. He’d decided to launch his own menswear line, which was a bit like announcing that you wouldn’t be taking that coaching job with the Yankees because you were starting your own baseball team. Browne persevered through the 2008 recession which nearly put him out of business. He took on investors but retained control of the company. He mesmerized audiences with runway shows featuring ice rinks and English gardens, unicorns and mob funerals. He added womenswear to the company. He embroidered dresses with buttons and with mink. And he created a handbag mode' 

Tags: new york fashion week , tom ford , thom browne , robin givhan

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